Joe Fraser Climbing is a small business, dedicated to delivering high quality climbing and mountaineering instruction. Last updated January 06 2021. Multi Pitch Climbing 1:2 Ratio £200 full day With a range of rock types in the northwest highlands there is a variety of styles of climbing to choose from. Perhaps Torridon has become most synonymous with quality Highland bouldering over the past few years with a range of amazing sandstone blocks lying on flat ground near to the road. Taster days cost £235/day for a group of six. There is also a gear crag here offering excellent steep crack lines. Multi-pitch climbs on Carnmore in the heart of the Fisherfield Forest or in Coire Mhic Fhearchair on the north side of Beinn Eighe are committing mountaineering experiences that contrast wonderfully with the abundant low-level, mostly single-pitch venues scattered from Torridon to … The Shelter Stone Crag and Hell's Lum. Shetland offers a veritable smorgasbord of rock types, many loose, but recent development has found gems such as Eshaness (45m) with a growing number of routes from Severe to E4. Ardverikie Wall (Severe) at the former is a classic. Skye is probably the best. The logistics of rock climbing in Scotland can be more difficult than elsewhere in the country due to some of the remote and wild locations that these climbs are situated. We wouldlike it to be one day, and you can help us (and users of thesepages) achieve a better service by telling us about wherever you havebeen! The sea cliffs of the mainland offer venues that are generally smaller (up to 50m). Ines Papert in Scotland, new Ben Nevis and Cairngorms winter climbs During a week winter climbing in Scotland, Ines Papert and Charly Fritzer have established Triple X, VIII,8 on Ben Nevis and Bavarinthia IX, 9 at Coire an Lochain in the Cairngorms. The rock of the Black Cuillin is of a very rough black-coloured volcanic type called Gabbro. In the Far North West around the Ullapool area are superb sandstone cliffs at Reiff, with hundreds of climbs between VDiff and E6 on a multitude of crags in small bays and headlands between 8m and 15m high. The jewels of the area are the larger crags of Creag Mhor Thollaidh and Loch Maree Crag with climbs ranging up to E6. The cliffs of Ben Nevis through a cloud inversion. Upper Cave Crag and Myopics Buttress give 15m overhanging routes on mica schist with grades ranging from 7b - 7c+. This ticklist is a listing of all of the 3 and 4 star multi-pitch rock routes in Scotland, as described in the SMC guides. Other smaller crags in the vicinity offer VD to E3 climbs also on granite. Aonach Eagach, 4km: Moderate) and there are several Gully climbs - a particularly esoteric activity involving climbing through waterfalls (e.g. Most of the islands have large areas of bouldering. contributed by jacobfinn May/12 - This public ticklist has been seen 30,689 times. Finally in the far flung North West are a series of small Lewisian Gneiss crags around Gairloch with Grass Crag offering a spread of grades between 5a and 7a, Creag nan Luch a handful of routes from 6a+ to 7c and Am Fasgadh offering a virtually permanently dry venue and harder lines. 7c categories. Multi Pitch rocking climbing techniques in Snowdonia July 29, 2019 - 10:14 am; Welsh 3000s over 2 days is a nice way to complete this challenge May 30, 2019 - 10:21 pm There is a long a tedious walk-in but the area is exceptionally beautiful and is a special conservation site (SSSI and World Heritage Site). Glen Lednock sports crag. Both are micro-granite up to 150m high with routes up to E6. Ardvorlich (20m) has eight routes from 6a+ to 6c+. There are not many routes, with the general grade being E1 and the hardest to date being E6. In Perthshire in the centre of Scotland is Craig a Barns with several crags of schist offering slabby or overhanging climbs between Difficult and E5. Gain or improve your current skills to build confidence to climb safely on your own. mountainous in character and contain large mountain cliffs: The Island of Skye (one of the Inner Hebridean islands) contains the twin mountain chains of The Red and The Black Cuillin. Near Edinburgh there is only one sport climbing venue - North Berwick Law Quarry. Scotland Ben Nevis - 1 day Ben Nevis Highland Challenge The Remote Adventure SPAIN Intro to Multi-pitch sport climbing course Iceland Núpsstaðaskógar - Expedition Hard ice 1 - Course About us Blog Contact Essential Information Gallery Guides There are numerous small crags varying in height between 8m and 90m that are low-lying and easy of access. New Age Raiders discovered by Greg Boswell and Callum Johnson on Bidean nam Bian in Scotland 26.12.2020 di Planetmountain On Church Buttress at Bidean nam Bian in Glen Coe, Scotland, Greg Boswell and Callum Johnson have made the first ascent of New Age Raiders, an impressively steep 2-pitch winter climb graded IX 9. Sron Ulladale in Harris must be one of the most impressive cliffs in Scotland with numerous routes in the upper grades of E5-E7 on its overhanging flanks (there is little in the way of easier routes). In the centre of Edinburgh, within the historic Holyrood Park are Salisbury Crags with a whole bevy of easy to middle grade problems. Glen Coe, with the iconic Buachaille Etive Mor, is regarded by many as one of the pre-eminent climbing areas of Scotland. To the north near Gairloch are a huge number of excellent gneiss crags ranging from 9m to 90m, offering all grades of route. In the extreme North West is the huge mountain mass of Foinavon. The cliffs around Uigg, and on the coastline south from here, on the Island of Lewis offer climbs up to 70m from VD to E8. The most famous is The Old Man of Hoy (100m) in The Orkney Isles whose easiest line of ascent is E1. Despite the difficulties of getting to these uninhabited islands (a five-hour ferry and chartering a local boat) they are rapidly becoming recognised as offering the best climbing experience in Scotland. Our professional Guides will show you the ropes... Rock Climbing. The area around Ardmair Crag itself has numerous blocks and small walls with over 100 problems V2-V6. Ben Nevis is best known for its winter ice climbing but it also contains some excellent quality rock, the best buttress being Carn Dearg Buttress which is 300m high and offers a range of middle to hard grade routes. This offers 20m climbs on fine-grained volcanic rock with routes graded 6b and 6c. Furthermore, you’ll find here some of the best rock climbing areas in the UK.. The Cairngorm mountain ranges on the east side of Scotland contain large buttresses of clean granite similar to Arran. Route choice and avalanche avoidance. The pace of development and documenting boulder problems in Scotland since 2000 has been almost impossible to keep up with. The most popular is Benny Beg Kinlochleven Scotland Beinn Chuirn and Eas Anie offers waterfall ice, and Beinn an Lochain, the Brack and the Cobbler offer technical mixed routes. VIII-IX: The hardest routes in Scotland. There is a website containing a guidebook to the sea stacks of the UK. 6a+. The majority of the climbs are on cliffs high up on the ridges of the mountains. Movement and technique. Some of the islands off the west coast of Scotland are Squids and Elephants). Grades range from easy (VB) to some very hard V14s. From climbing on the sea cliffs of Devon and Cornwall and the sea stacks of Scotland, ... teaching you all the skills you need to learn to lead climb outside and take on multi pitch climbing routes. This 30m sandstone crag offers rounded cracks and difficult jamming with climbs up to E5 only 15 minutes from the road. But the small sandstone walls and blocs have an almost never ending supply of all grades. They are found on old quarries as well as on natural outcrops in the foothills of the Highlands. The rock is Rhyolite and offers fine climbing. The Clachaig Gully, 500m: Severe). The crag faces south and is a sun trap in summer and winter and is sitting high on a south facing hillside with routes mainly in the 6a With inspirational routes on single pitch outcrops, sea cliffs and multi pitch mountain crags, there will be a climbing to suit you. Further north beside the village of Aberfoyle is Ben An, a miniature mountain, with mica schist crags up to 40m high. This lower ground, although still mountainous in feel, is covered in small outcrops. A high concentration of moderate classics is a huge draw for amateur trad leaders. near Crieff; a 10m high escarpment of Dolerite with routes from 3+ to VII:Multi-pitch routes with long sections of vertical or thin ice, or mixed routes with lots of highly technical climbing. Not far away from this is Dunira Sport Crag Mountaineering Scotland recognises that climbing and mountaineering are activities with a danger of personal injury or death. The most impressive and cleanest for rock climbing are Creag an Dubh Loch and Lochnagar in the southern Cairngorms, and The Shelterstone Crag in the northern Cairngorms. Please help UKClimbing continue to provide varied and free content by becoming an official UKC Supporter. But if it’s the really big routes you are after then you will have to look to the mountains of Scotland, Wales and … Photo by Dave Pickford. North again in the region around Tarbet and Scourie are recently developed slabs and geos of gneiss offering excellent adventurous routes in the lower grades, whilst the real gem in the extreme North West is Sheigra, offering a number of higher (50m) climbs, again on gneiss, from VD to E6. Almost 900 climbs on perfect gneiss are found on crags from 20m to 250m in height. The landings are not quite so forgiving so a selection of matts is a good idea. Many, unfortunately, are north facing and take time to come into dry condition after the winter. I enjoyed it very much, I feel like I learnt a lot and I wanted to say thank you! Nearby is Glen Lednock with a series of crags up to 50m high and offering either schist or granite climbs from Severe to E6. It'sthen up to you to go and see for yourself. It is the unlikely home to the hardest traditional route in the world at a grade of E11- completed by Dave MacLeod in 2006. On the east coast around Edinburgh can be found Traprain Law, another volcanic crag up to 20m with climbs graded Difficult to E1. Another offering in this area is a crag known as Rockdust, sitting high on a south facing hillside near Pitlochry which has great 20m lines from 5 to 7a and offers a breezy midge-free venue in the summer. The cliffs range in size from 100m to 300m. Another single boulder that was popular since the 1960s is The Narnain Stone high on the side of The Cobbler near Loch Lomond. On the fringes of the Southern Cairngorms north of Dundee, in the Angus Glen of Glen Clova, lies a series of outcrops close to the road, but in a mountain setting. Around Glasgow there are a number of small quarries offering short but extremely steep and difficult sport routes, particularly at Dumbuck and Dumbarton. Further north near the small town of Aberfeldy is Weem Rock. To the west is Glen Nevis (beside Ben Nevis) which offers numerous climbs of up to 150m on immaculate schist, from Difficult to E9. There is a bunkhouse, a Club Hut and a good café and hotel nearby civilised mountain cragging! This small glen has become one of the most important sport climbing areas in Scotland, with over 80 routes situated either side of the road. The rock is excellent quality schist and grades range from 5 on the easier angled crags to 7b+ on the very steep side-walls. For more info and condition reports see www.scottishwinter.com Many are north facing and offer excellent winter but disappointing summer climbing. They can be found all over the seaboard of Scotland. © 2021 Mountaineering Scotland Further north towards Gairloch and Poolewe are stones galore, again on perfect sandstone, many just waiting to be discovered. Due to the coastal influence conditions can be fickle, but on the right day classic gullies like Central Gully on Ben Lui, or Y Gully on the lofty Munro Cruach Ardrain offer a great experience. In the Far Northern Highlands, the mountains tend to be separate entities standing distinct amongst vast areas of lower ground. Where do you start? - This public ticklist has been seen 30,709 times, Spaced Out Rockers On The Road To Oblivion, Ariel's Arête (a.k.a. In recent years the quality of the sandstone cliffs along the east Caithness coast of the far north east towards Wick have been recognised and now there are hundreds of 25m+ routes of all grades from VD to the mid E grades; Sarclet, Mid Clyth and Latheronwheel being of particularly high quality. The beauty about multi pitch climbing is the climbing flows more and puts you in some amazing places! It describes over 1,700 routes across 11 different areas including Ben Nevis, Glen Coe and the Cairngorms. Multi-pitch climbing in the Scottish Mountains is an all-absorbing experience and gives you a true taste of the steeper rock faces to be found in Glencoe and on Ben Nevis. The exceptions are amongst the best and most remote cliffs in Scotland. Deeper into the hills around Comrie constructed over 25m require belay stances for multi-pitch style climbing. On the Island of Hoy in the Orkney Islands lies the Further north is Scotlands most extensive roadside crag, Creag Dubh. The Anvil (a giant 15m boulder) has become second only to Dumbarton Rock for hard sport routes up to 8c, whilst Tighnabruaich offers permanently dry, upside down lines around the 8a grade. (Dont always believe the weather forecast - this area is often dry when the Met Office says otherwise.) They are all on sandstone and grades range from 5 to 8c, they include Balmashanna Quarry, Ley Quarry near Forfar and Legaston Quarry near Arbroath. A handful of good problems from V1 to V5 with a good path right to the base make this popular in summer. The Kishorn Stones lay right by the road whilst Coire nan Arr Stones are only a few minutes walk up the glen and together offer up to 50 problems mainly VB to V4 with the occasional test piece. The crags are all short (8m - 10m) but are uniformly steep and This contains routes up to 300m ranging from Severe to E6. Jan Newman leads the second bold pitch of Arrow Route, Sron na Ciche. ... Winter Mountaineering Course Bob I returned yesterday to Holland after attending the three days mountaineering course in Scotland. The Aztec Tower also now sports a few low-grade sport routes on metamorphosed sandstone. All rights reserved. Photo by Brian Martin. Our quick guide gives you an idea of where to go to find the type of climbing that suits you, whether its single-pitch outcrop routes or major, multi-pitch mountain routes. This small glen has become one of the most important sport climbing areas in Scotland, with over 80 routes situated either side of the road. The crags are all short (8m - 10m) but are uniformly steep and technical in character. The best so far are: The Rhiconich Bloodstone by the road, a giant sandstone block with 12 highball problems with classic lines at V2+; Sandwood Bay crags lying above a golden beach which although a long walk in are idyllic; and finally a collection of many blocks round the hamlet of Shiegra giving mainly V3-V5 problems. Grades range from VS to E6 but the best routes are in the extreme grades. One contender for the most remote is Lurg Mhor at the head of loch Monar. Route grades are in the mid range and the crag is 16m high. There are boulders 1 min from the road or you can explore the myriad blocks amongst the crags and woodland on either side of the Polldubh waterfall. technical in character. In the south west area of The Galloway Hills are a couple of quality mountain cliffs. In the south west at Laggantulloch and Meikle Ross are some strange greywacke cliffs offering adventurous climbing from V Diff to E4 up to 60m. Most of the information has only been available on the internet, but there is a guidebook being produced by Stone Country Press due in 2017. The UK and Scotland in particular has arguably some of the most diverse rock climbing in the world, and correspondingly is a favourite with Mountain Guides. I am sorry if your favourite 2 star route is not in the list - don't blame me! The best central Scotland venue is Glen Lednock with over 100 problems near the dam, ranging from VB (suitable for very small kids) to V9. There are slabs which involve pure friction climbing such as AChir, Cir Mhor and Rosa Slabs as well as vertical and overhanging bastions of boiler-plate-like granite sheets such as Cioch na HOighe and Ceuthe Meadhonach.
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